Two things happened to me today that I found worth writing about as the day is ending and I'm full from pesto pasta.

1. I got a piece of pizza from this place I've been wanting to go to all term that is on my street. It was more of a phyllo dough crust and it had a bottom and top crust which housed mushrooms and cheese. It was some of the best pizza I have had here: salty yet savory because of the phyllo dough and just enough cheesy to make it melty. Just talking about it makes me want to go back and get another slice.

But that is a pretty boring story. What made it interesting was that on the way out of the shop, I tripped on a cobblestone and it fell onto the cobblestone street. I was in front of a restaurant and a few people even groaned for me. I looked at it on the ground filled with depression and picked it up to take a trash can around the corner. But as I approached the trash can, I realized I just couldn't do it. I rationalized that I have probably eaten dirtier things in my life without knowing it and proceeded to eat the whole thing.

I don't regret it.

2. I went for a long run into the country side and was so caught up in the moment of that run I had to share it. My senses here are constantly being tested for their capacity; I see things, touch things, hear things and feel things but most I smell these gorgeous aromas.

The road was narrow asphalt and wasn't very busy. On either side were views of the Tuscan patchwork landscape of vineyards, olive groves, forest and houses. On the immediate side of the road were grassy knolls with gardens mixed in and large villas with beautiful gates and long windy roads. It was simply the most pictuerese run I've been on.

The best part about it though - and about Siena right now - is that all of the honeysuckle is blooming. For 5 miles all I got to smell was honeysuckle flowers and I was struck by how incredibly lucky I am to have studied abroad, but mostly to have studied abroad in Tuscany.

I think about all of the things I've done and things I'm going to do in my life and I know that this trip has been the most influential event of my life so far and will probably be one of them at the end of my life as well. It has changed me in so many ways and my perspective of life and the world will never be the same. I will return to Eugene and be stressed and go to school, work, eat, sleep and do all of this things again but something about them will be different. Even the mundane will be different and that is because I am different. I feel my desires for career, relationships and my relationship with myself have been tested here yet I feel more confident than ever in what I want out of life and who I am.

Baby went down to Amsterdam...

On thursday night we left for Amsterdam and for once we weren't flying Ryanair! We were shocked at the leg room available and the fact that snacks were passed out during the flight. We took advantage of the free wine and beer and passed. It's become the thing to take pictures of each other sleeping because somehow we always end up in the weirdest positions with the strangest facial expressions. This particular picture left me with the worst crick in my neck and got Mary and I some strange looks from the family across the isle.

We got in pretty late and because we needed to get up early for the Anne Frank house, some of the girls went to bed and the rest of us explored the area and got a snack to eat. The night is beautiful in Amsterdam with all of the lights reflecting off of the canals.

We stumbled upon an asian grill and I was in heaven. I never thought I would say this but I don't know if I can eat another piece of pizza. Actually, give me a week and I will want one, but when we are finally given variety we tend to go nuts. Throughout the voyage to Holland I ate:

-indonesian food that was so spicy we were all sweating but absolutely delicious

-fries fries fries with all different types of sauces (mayonese, ketchup, curry)

-a delicious hotdog drowned in relish because aparently Italy doesn't believe in pickles

-shoarma which is this shaved roasted meat with a garlic and chili sauce in a pita

-dutch apple pie

-a strawberry tart

-cheesecake

-a salmon sandwich

-and a lot of apples that my economical side brought along for the trip

It would be an understatement to say that I was full the entire time I was in Amsterdam.

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But anywho, the next morning we went to the Anne Frank House which was a mixture of an eery atmosphere, depressing and devastating emotions yet extremely moving. You get to tour the entire building that they hid in for two years, which was a storefront with a secret attic and back part. It was incredible to hear the stories of not only Anne but her whole family and the people who aided in helping them. I had no idea that the two men who were in charge of the building, business and hiding them were also sent to concentration camps although they survived. Anne's father is the only one out of their entire family and the other family that was hiding with them to survive. We left feeling a little gloomy but also in awe of a family with such courage and strength.

We went on the search for Dutch pancakes but instead came across Dutch apple pie which OH MY GOD was absolutely delicious. It was served with fresh whip cream that was so thick you could hold the plate upside down and it would stay. We finished and walked into the center of town only to stumble upon a men's beach volleyball tournament, definitely the weirdest thing I have seen in Europe so far. They had literally poured sand into the middle of the city center and had a DJ playing hip hop and techno = so strange.

From there we went to Vondel park where I could stay for hours; it was so beautiful and there were people covering almost every inch of green. There was music and food and laughter and babies and couples and enough bikes for everyone that goes to the University of Oregon...twice.

That night when we went out we met an English cricket team and they might be the funniest group of guys I have ever met. They had this deal called "wild card" that was like the ultimate truth or dare. There was a pot of 100 euros and if you didn't complete whatever the dare was you lost your money. One guy had to slowly take his pants off in the middle of the dance floor and I looked over right as these girls around him were slowly backing away from him - scared - and all of his friends were dyeing laughing. Another guy had to get down on his knees and act like he was looking for something on the floor for 15 minutes.

The next day we went to the I Amsterdam sign and after taking some classic pictures, and fighting people to take those photos, we headed over to the Van Gogh museum. It was one of the coolest museums I have ever been too. They had it arranged chronologically so we could see his progression as a beginning artist, a troubled man and then right before he committed suicide. After the museum we went back to the park because we loved it so much. Mackenzie's cousin lives near Amsterdam so we met up with him and because one of his friends owns a boat, we got a free tour of Amsterdam via the canals. We boated to a local microbrewery and got to hang out, listen to a live band and enjoy some Oregon style microbrews.

I thought Amsterdam was going to be a run down, drug infested city but I fell in love with it. It had much more of a village feel with the beauty of the canals, architecture, delicious mix of food, and great people. The Red Light District was funny to go through but it was such a small section of town and in no way reflected all of Amsterdam. I could go back and I know that I will someday.

The travel home was absolutely crazy; my biggest fear is crashing in an airplane and I woke up to being in the middle of thunderstorm with literally, thunder outside of the airplane. It was absolutely terrifying. But alas, we made it home and despite us all being on separate flights we found each other in Florence and without fail we ran into each other, running to catch buses and trains.

Beauty and Love

I haven't written in forever so here is a summary of my life in the past three weeks:

I hit a new low (or high, its matter of perspective) yesterday when I tried lard for the first time. Not disguised in the pasta or salami I eat, but literally straight lard. We went to a famous butcher, Dario Cecchini, in Panzano in Chianti who is quite the character. As you walk in there is opera music playing and you are greeted with a glass of wine and free samples of salami, olive oil and salts, and of course the lardo. This is cured lard with spices and the particular kind we had was used as a spread on bread. It was pretty delicious but one taste was enough; I could hear my arteries screaming as I swallowed.

My spring break consisted of Barcelona for four days and Dublin for three. It was a crazy week of no sleep and meeting wonderful people. I realize a little more everyday that these travels, and this trip is all about relationships. We met a guy from England named Harry who ended up hanging out with us everyday in Barcelona. We had two guys from Boston take a picture of us on the top of Gaudi's park and we ended up walking around together and talking for a while. Then randomly saw them again in the middle of Barcelona. The odds? Low, yet you get this feeling that people come into your life for a reason when events like that occur.

Another student we met in Rome on the Spanish Steps has been studying in Dublin and when we were there he was able to show us around. We continue to make aquaintances with people we may or may not ever see again but the warmth we have felt from even their brief encounters is a memory I will always have.

I have seen monuments and amazing architecture - Gaudi's Sagrada Familia is by far the coolest building I have ever been into - but the things I will always hold dear to my heart are the people I've met along the way. And then there are the girls on this trip. We have experienced so much together that we joke how we know all of each other's stories...but it's true.

We managed to sit in the rowdy section of a Siena soccer game where ladies got in for only 1 euro...because it's Italy. We celebrated a birthday at this beautiful jazzy tea room where we danced to Frank Sinatra. I got caught in the dragon contrada's parade during the picking of the palio contradas. I have finally made it in with the baristas at the coffee place I go to every morning. Luca is the man who works in the afternoon and told me I go in there enough I should probably learn his name. The woman who works in the morning knows my order by heart and always laughs when I ask for two shots of espresso. I met a man at the market this morning from Arezzo who had all of his salami and pork products for sale. He gave me enough samples to count for lunch and when I finally bought only a 2 euro package of meat, he didn't care, and gave me his card. I walked behind two old women holding hands because not only were they best friends but they were holding each other up, and probably not just physically.

In Dublin, I broke off from the group and walked along the Grand Canal for a solid hour, thinking about my life and this trip. I looked up just in time to see a tree in front of me covered in flowers and trinkets and signs with sayings about friends, family and love. I automatically assumed it was a memorial to someone who had died, like in America where there is a memorial on the side of a road. But as I searched and searched the tree for some sign of reason I came to realize the only reason it was decorated and celebrated was just because. People were celebrating love together at this common tree with no other purpose than to make someone else smile.

Studying abroad makes you realize a lot about yourself and others. You see who you want to keep in your life and what things will make you happy. I've learned that happiness is something all too often taken for granted or replaced with other things. I've learned that people and connections and relationships are what make this world go around and that those experiences are what I truly want out of life. I was sad for a while thinking that I only have 6 weeks left in Europe before I realized that all of life is an adventure, wherever you are. Your attitude determines so much in life and as long as I can have adventures, have those relationships I want and love something - whether or not that is a person, a career, or something else - then happiness will always be there. I told Mackenzie my dad's saying: that a person needs something to love, something to do, and something to look forward to. We all agree that this trip has solidified the reality of that statement.

Jenny gave me a book before I left that I have re-read a lot while being here. It's called "As a Man Thinketh" and she told me how inspirational it was. Proving once again we are soul mates, reading it was one of the most inspirational things I have ever experienced. The entire book is dedicated to showing how one thinks determines their reality. Positive thinking means a positive life; circumstance is a product of your mode of thinking. It was a great book but one chapter stuck out the most to me. It was about a certain group of people in this world sometimes cast as useless and unrealistic...the dreamers. The people who contribute beauty to a world that is already beautiful but that is often lost on those who don't take the time to look for it.

"The dreamers are the saviors of the world. The world is beautiful because they have lived; without them, laboring humanity would perish."

Karma

Coming home from a long train trip one weekend, we met a fellow traveler at the Siena train station. He was an English student on break and was backpacking through Italy. He had no place to stay and no idea what to do so we gave him some directions to a hostel and met up with him that night to show him a good time. Just to prove karma exists here is a message he recently sent us:

hi,

i never really got back to you all to say thanks for taking me out in Siena, and helping me find a place to sleep. i really appreciate it.

You've got some great photos up of Italy that make me pretty jealous i diddnt have longer to stay and explore more of the country. I suppose ill have to go back some day and do it properly - but then, i think like that every time i go somewhere new, and its a big world, theres not enough time to go everywhere.

By the way, do you remember that map you gave me of the town? my original plan was to keep it as a souvenier of that part of my trip, but i met another traveller in Volterra who said he was visiting Siena, and i thought he needed it more than me, so i gave it to him. i spoke to him on facebook when i got home and he said he gave it to someone else aswell, as he was leaving Siena. i think its pretty cool that its changed hands so many times and helped a bunch of people.

a lot of times you'll never realise how far down the line your actions can affect other people.
hope you're all well and the sun is shining
Magnus

The Italian language is as romantic as their lifestyle is.

The word for your soul mate is "twin soul" and people don't call their lovers honey or babe, they call them their "treasure".

Aaahh, Italia.

Siena's heatin' up

This last weekend we stayed in Siena, relaxed and got to explore more of this beautiful city. We soaked up the sun in the local gardens and talked for hours about life, love and everything in between. Its afternoons like those that make you appreciate the people in your life that you can have those long, flowing conversations with.

We attempted to explain Cinco de Mayo (and why we were drinking only tequila and coronas) to the Italians and got a lot of confused looks.

We went to an AC Siena soccer game and got to celebrate a tie, which allowed them to move up the A league.

That afternoon and night Siena was a madhouse; men and women from the ages of 16 to 70 were drunk, creating spontaneous parades, setting off fireworks and orange smoke bombs. They had live music playing in the campo that night and after we pushed our way to front and center, the entire soccer team came up on stage and sang songs for hours. Everyone in the crowd new the lyrics and because we were so close we got pictures with some of the players.

The contradas are gearing up for the Palio - there are men in colorful suits everywhere drumming and carrying flags. There are constant parties to celebrate each contrada (we are the unicorn) and people are just generally in high spirits.

Great weekend, great city. Life is good.

Roma, my love

Finally catching up on Roma.

Our class of 15 students had an excursion to Rome on the weekend of the beatification of Pope John Paul II. We bused into Rome at noon on Thursday and immediately started a walking tour of this gigantic city. Yet before the blisters started forming, me and a few friends took a snack break. Only in Rome could I find a pizza with arugula, smoked salmon, cheese and a balsamic reduction sauce. Yummy yummy yummy.

Our first stop was the colosseum; it's grandiose stature and turbulent history made me feel like an ant next to it. Built in the 1st century AD and capable of seating the entire city of Siena, it is amazing to realize that the architect is unknown. Our art history professor - Pierre Giacomo or PG for short - was telling us about the ancient fighting that happened within it's walls wasn't the Russell Crow gladiator we think of. Fighters would dress and have weapons that represented two of the 4 elements or 2 deities and the fight and victory would be symbolic, très intéressant. Also, if you haven't heard of them, get on this band wagon: line ups. Shout out to our Cinque Terre boys for opening our eyes to the glory that is line ups.

Adjacent to the colosseum is the Arch of Constantine, a huge triumphal arch celebrating an important victory for Constantine over Maxentius. Its position is strategic because it is on this part of Rome that emperors would promenade after victories, inflating their egos and securing their positions of power. It is interesting that the lower part of the arch was probably constructed years before and then reused in order to create this arch. Reduce reuse recycle.

Continuing along the Via Triumphalis or the triumphant walk Roman Emperors took, we headed to the Palatine Hill where you can find such a concentration of history its mind blowing. This is one of the 7 hills of Rome and the mythological location of the she-wolf that nursed Romulus and Remus after their mother was killed. Excavations show people have lived in the Palatine since 1000 BC and it is the epicenter of Rome. From this center, Rome expanded into the city we know today. Many Emperors resided here, including Augustus, and just expanded on the original construction. Close by is the Roman Circus which has a debated historical use, some say it is was a garden, other say it was used for foot races.

A few minutes walk down the hill and you enter one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen in my life: the Roman Forum. This is the true political center of ancient Rome and the location of things such as the complex of the Vestal Virgins, the Senate's house and offices, the Temple of Vesta, Basilica. The history of this place is too wide and deep to tackle via blog. The coolest part for me was seeing Caesar's burial mound due to my obsession with Cleopatra beginning in 3rd grade. A close second was learning the history and genealogy of Emperor Nero, the last of the Caesar line.

In that same day we saw the Capitoline Hill (another of Rome's 7 hills) which was one of Michelangelo's masterpieces and the Pantheon which is a temple dedicated to all of the Roman gods whose statues line the interior, with beautiful marble everywhere and an open ceiling. Piazza Navona

is a beautiful square in quintessential Italian style: music, art, flowers and food everywhere surrounding a beautiful fountain by Bernini. This was my favorite place in Rome by far, the atmosphere was so saturated with love, you couldn't help but be a little loopy from it all.

We had a group dinner of spaghetti carbonara, a traditional Roman dish because meat was so scarce in this region historically due to poverty. It is eggs, cheese and bacon and honestly, I could have married it. It is much different in the South than in the North and this Roman one wins hands down. We also had the best tiramisu I've ever had. I'm not a fan of tiramisu and this one melted in your mouth. It was more custard-y and the cake used was more like a cookie. It had just the right amount of coffee liquor and bah, if you could see my hands, I'm kissing my fingers, Italian style.

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The next day we set out for the Vatican. In high school I went to France with my french class and we saw about a bazillion Cathedrals. That experience left me thinking I had seen it all. Oh was I wrong.

First off, this was the weekend of the beatification of Pope John Paul II or a step in the process of becoming a saint. Rome was alive with energy and the Vatican was packed; people from all over the world had come to celebrate this event. The line to get into St. Peter's Basilica was stretched all around St. Peter's square. It was moving pretty quickly though and in no time we were standing in the most magnificent church I have ever been in. I didn't know how truly huge it is until PG told me that the lettering I was looking at near the top of the ceiling was 6 feet high. And then I saw a speck - maybe a fly - moving by the lettering and realized, it was a human. Ginormous. The historical gossip surrounding this basilica is interesting. Michelangelo - who among many other artists - completed a large portion of the basilica was forced to do so and wrote that "I undertake this only for the love of God and in honour of the Apostle." Original rebellion.

My favorite part of the basilica was a tomb and sculpture done by Bernini who was responsible for a lot of the embellishments inside of St. Peter's. It is the tomb of Pope Alexander VII and is made of beautiful red marble with a bronze skeleton coming out from beneath it. The skeleton carries an hourglass. I loved this work after PG described the significance of it all. Bernini was saying that in an age of illusion, where artists and poets were fascinated with the idea that everything is an illusion - power, money, intelligence, love - the only real thing is death. If life is a dream the only thing we all have in common, the only real part of this life is death, because it will always come. The idea is only gloomy and pessimistic if you choose to see it that way; I thought it was terribly interesting and really thought provoking.

For the rest of the day we toured the Vatican museums where there was more famous artwork than I care to recall. The highlight of the entire trip was PG the tour guide. He was talking so loudly that we got shushed by every Vatican security person there - outside and inside. Our solution was to get those walky talky things where he talks quietly into a microphone which we hear on our headsets. Except he talked so loud we just turned off our head seats and pretended to be using them. He is the cutest little man ever - short short short and as wide as he is tall. He smokes out of a pipe which he carries everywhere and rocks a Dallas Cowboys baseball hat.

The culmination of frescos, sculptures and paintings could make your head spin and for the students in our program who are art history buffs, they must have been having a religious experience. Seeing the Sistine Chapel was very special though and my favorite part of the entire piece is the famous "Creation of Adam". The depiction of creating Adam - not in flesh and bone - but by giving him a soul, was such an interesting idea, that I stared for quite sometime before I realized my friends had moved on.

In our free time we checked out the Trevi Fountain and met a man who told us how to wish properly. You take out three coins and hold them in your right hand and make three wishes: one for yourself, one for love and one for marriage. The legend is that if you make a wish at this fountain you will come back to Rome. Hopefully my three come true and I get to come back. Our next stop was the Spanish Steps, only a five minute walk from the fountain. We grabbed some beers and watched the sun go down from the top. In our true MMMKKK fashion, we meet a few different groups of American guys. Just so the universe could prove to me how small the world is, one of the guys is an older brother of a friend I know from UO. Additionally he studied in Barcelona and is giving us tons of tips for our trips there this coming weekend.

That night we hit the town and I had a Danish IPA with hops shipped from California. But the real icing to my Roman cake was seeing this gem of a man, exploring Rome with his wife who didn't seem to mind his outfit choice.

Ahh, Roma.